Chiang Rai, Thailand

Back to Thailand

After leaving Da Lat, we had a brief stay in Ho Chi Minh City and then flew to Chiang Mai. After some intense experiences in Vietnam it was refreshing to be back in the familiar space of northern Thailand. I’ve already written of Chiang Mai, and I will get to it again in the next post, but I wanted to skip to Chiang Rai.

Chiang Rai

Before coming to Thailand I had this notion that Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai were close sister cities — I think that’s just because the names sound similar. But of course, that notion is nonsense. Chiang Rai is very much its own place, reachable within a few hours bus ride from Chiang Mai. Compared to Chiang Mai it feels much smaller and quieter, but with a lot of charm if you look around.

King’s Monument

It also helped that we stayed in a homestay run by two super friendly guys who cooked amazing breakfasts for us every morning. Best pad thai imaginable.

Temple Run

On motorbike we explored a fair amount in and around the city. Chiang Rai is well known for its interesting temples — what’s interesting is many are surprisingly unconventional.

Wat Phra Kaew is a good example of the Chiang Rai’s traditional and historical temples. In the 15th century the temple’s already ancient stupa was struck by lightning which revealed a sacred green stone (emerald) Buddha statue — or so the story goes. Also, because it is a royal temple with regular donations it has a decent museum on the grounds.

Emerald statue at Wat Phra Kaew

Wat Phra Kaew main temple

Wat Rong Khun, also known as the “White Temple“. Technically not a temple, but actually an art exhibit that attracts a huge number of tourists. Apparently it used be a real temple but was built (or rebuilt to some extent) by a local artist with curious artistic add-ons, and statues. Though almost all in bright bleached white, it all felt a bit gaudy and so only faintly connected with the Buddhist practices or storytelling.

Wat Rong Khun

And then by contrast (at least in color) there is Wat Rong Suea Ten, known commonly as the Blue Temple. Built on top of ancient temple ruins, construction for this temple was finished only recently. Inside the main hall there are collection fantastical murals, all in a bright blue theme, that clearly depart from traditional Thai styles. Though it is a true religious temple it’s hard to imagine it being used that way considering it was stuffed with gawking tourists.

Wat Rong Suea Ten

Dragon statue at Wat Rong Suea Ten

And if you’re looking for more colorized themes, there is also Baan Dam, or “Black House”, another art exhibit which we didn’t visit. But this one is also popular stop for travelers. I wonder if there are more colorful sites in the works.

Hot Things

Our exploration north of Chiang Rai led us to a fascinating handmade pottery workshop with some impressive pieces made with local clays. Unfortunately we didn’t get a good look at their firing kilns, but it looks like some of them might have been wood fire kilns.

Also, especially significant (and relieving) to Kanako was a small hot spring establishment. The hot spring had an outdoor foot bath and pool for those with swim suits, but also private indoor baths which worked well for us. They were just simple tiled cylindrical tubs with a spout for intensely hot water and another for cold. Eventually we got the temperature mix right and melted in the soothing spring water.

Bath at the hot springs

We just happened to be in Chiang Rai for the hot air balloon festival. So, near the end of our stay in Chiang Rai, we took a long ride one evening out to Singha Park (owned by Singha Brewing — the beer with the mythological lion on it) for the balloons. It was the first time any of us had seen hot air balloons so close, and it was a marvel just to watch them float carefully controlled through the air. There was actually a small game setup over a pond for the balloon teams to compete by dropping bean bags on bullseyes or through rings. It was amazing to see most of them deftly maneuver up and down gentle as clouds gliding through on calm day.

Hot air balloons at Singha Park

It seems Singha park is also known for its hills of cosmos flower (Cosmos bipinnatus), which were in full bloom and marvelous in the dusk light.

Cosmos